Lessons: Working with the Factory

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In the fashion industry, working with a factory is a day-to-day process for entrepreneurs. That’s why fashion education covers communication.

“I do daily chores as a designer,” explains fashion expert Angela Gao. “To ensure that your samples and products are being produced on time, you need to be in touch with your factories on a daily basis.”

Bigger design houses, Angela explains, usually have a design development department that can handle these tasks. Angela is an entrepreneur, however, and she does this work on her own. Many fashion designers do the same.

For Angela, whose factory is in China, this means figuring out the time difference and choosing the best times to call her factory agent. She makes sure to call during times when both she and her factory agent are working.

When Angela calls her factory agent, she follows up on specific items and designs. She may ask if the factory received her latest design specs, for example.

The agent answers her questions and tells her about any issues with fabric, potential delays, and more. The agent will also tell her when things run smoothly. During this conversation, Angela also asks for updates on production dates and shipping.

In addition to receiving updates from the agent, Angela may also provide some updates of her own, if necessary. For example, if she changes the style of a garment, she’ll let the agent know when the factory can expect her updates.

Other conversations can include email. With email, Angela can send design specs and tech packs. Email also lets Angela communicate without worrying about the time difference.

In any case, direct communication is key for fashion entrepreneurs like Angela. Both phone and email conversations help Angela maintain her success. This way, Angela can avoid surprises and stay up to date on her design production.

Managing Production: Calling Out Your Production

The start of the footwear production process comes after you either receive an order from your vendors, your retailers, or your customers. Once you receive an order or a projection, that’s when the production officially starts. Once you have the order in hand, you have the quantities or number of units you’re looking to go to production with and you can start to negotiate pricing.

When you have footwear pricing solidified with the factories and the customers, it then heads into the next stages of production confirmation. At that point in the footwear business, you have a sales sample you’ve been showing and selling to the customer. Next, you need to provide either a confirmation spec or a technical spec of exactly what will go forward to production.

This means, if anything changed from the sales sample, you would have to communicate that to the factory or the supplier prior to them starting production. If you need an outsole to be softer, if you need a lining to be a different color or a lacing to be a different quality, you would have to call that out. The confirmation sample should reflect every change that you have made along the way.

A call out is really something that either comes from the customer or comes from yourself as the designer, the sales team, or someone who has intimate knowledge of the product and footwear education. The call out is something about the sample that you’d like addressed and resolved before production begins. Whether that’s a color, simply a comment that the execution could be improved, if the outsole could be more flexible, or if the padding in the sock compresses too much. Anything that is called out to the factory or the supplier of the footwear should be discussed and confirmed prior to actual shoe production.

Instructing the Manufacturer: The Tech Pack: Sampling and Tech Packs

When fashion designers need to instruct manufacturers how to create their products, they communicate the specifics by creating a tech pack. These documents explain all the information required to transform an idea, drawing, flat pattern, swatch selection, or combination of such concept elements into a finished garment.

After creating a tech pack, a designer typically forwards it to their product development, or PD, team. The PD team then sends the information to a factory – or multiple factories. This strategy reveals which factories can meet the desired standards and which are the most cost-effective. According to experts, cost differences are common, so it’s vital to aim for the highest quality at the lowest price.

Eventually, the factory returns samples based on the tech pack specifications. At this point, the designer evaluates the results based on various criteria. One common consideration is whether the factory produced an item to the stated specifications. In many cases, the quick turnaround times involved at this stage will result in some variability. For instance, early samples may incorporate substitute materials since a factory won’t have had time to prepare for the new specification in advance. Nonetheless, designers and their merchandising teams can benefit from considering whether the garments are aesthetically pleasing or correctly fitted.

Designers commonly have seemingly great ideas that don’t quite translate into appealing real-life apparel. In most cases, however, they prefer not to deviate too far from their initial tech pack specifications. Sticking to the plan helps brands satisfy tight timeline constraints.

Many production teams operate around something called a “Time and Action Calendar.” This well-known industry schedule involves a heavy, continuous workload. For instance, companies may work on three seasons’ worth of collections simultaneously, each with its own tech packs. Further complicating the timetable, a typical tech pack can progress through a cycle of multiple sample runs before being ready to go to market. In other words, it’s best to keep the initial tech pack as close to the desired target as possible.

Lessons: Design School Collections

“What inspired these young designers started almost a year ago with sketches, inspiration, and research,” Explains Explains Francesca Sammaritano. “The end product is what you see over here. You’re only seeing one look per designer. But, I wanted to share that with you.”

“It gives you a wide range of specializations that you can go into within the fashion industry, whether it be men’s wear, outerwear, women’s wear, or a more designer-level collection or aesthetic that you want to pursue.”

One designer did a collection of women’s wear outerwear with a lot of in-depth research on how outerwear works, what kind of technical fabrics you need, what colors work best, water repellency, all kinds of removable liners for when it’s cold or when it’s raining while also giving the option to wear the garment in different ways.

If you zip out the liner, you can wear the liner as a vest. She went a step further. She had a collection of shoes and boots made to go with her collection. The design process is inclusive of accessories as well as garments. She will pursue an opportunity in outerwear.

Another example of the variety of jobs or opportunities that you can pursue once you become a designer could be women’s wear designer on a higher level. This designer really values the art of craft. He invested in a weaving machine. He made this fabric. He bought the yarns.

He designed the fabric, made yardage, and then he sewed the garment. He is now pursuing an opportunity in designer women’s wear with a focus on craft. Another example that I thought would be wonderful to show is our menswear designer who coincidentally won the Menswear Designer of the Year.

This is just one example of his extensive collection. In this, he incorporated a few different aspects. He used natural fibers. He printed his own fabric and his own print from curtains that inspired him from growing up in his house in childhood. He is a menswear designer.

But, we found that in the conversations that we had with him and in the presentations that he’s had of his collection, a lot of people would ask him, would you consider designing for women’s wear too? Because as a woman, I would wear your garments. Or you could do both. Or there could be a customer for either/or. This is a very interesting, trendy category that we find a lot of students are going for.

Lessons: Digital Connections

Get an inside look on how creators in the fashion business tailors digital content and come up with fresh ideas for online fashion education across.

“All our digital platforms are unique. Each one is its own creature,” explains Amy Astley. “So what the Pinterest audience is looking for is different from the Tumblr, Twitter, and Facebook audiences, which are huge audiences, by the way.”

In some places, people are looking for services, information, or news you can use. In other places, it’s a visual bit of inspiration, just a quick delight to the eye for the day.

We think about every single platform and teamvogue.com differently. Asking, what is this audience looking for? “But then in addition to serving the audience, we try to surprise and delight them too, with something that they didn’t think of.”

Ashley explains that when you’re making digital content, you want to keep it short, keep it shareable, make it something that grabs you. “Because it’s so beautiful, it’s so clever, it’s so funny, it’s something that their friends have to see that there’s something about it that’s grabbing them quickly.”

“And it has to be a real idea,” Marie Suter adds. “I feel like what we’ve discovered is that if it’s just behind-the-scenes or something similar, nobody’s interested.”

“Been there, done that. Seen that. You have to keep challenging yourself.” says Amy.

“For the last six months, I’ve been meeting a videographer, showing Amy, and we’ve been entering this world,” explains Marie. “But now, not only do we have the print team that does the shoot where we would get extra shots, but we often have a videographer with a completely different idea.”

In the last three months, it has changed. At first, the photographer from the shoot was doing the video and was on the side at the end of the shoot, when there’s no more light. Where now, there are specific times carved out.

We shoot a lot of musicians and with this content you want to do something on the website that’s linked to their music, where you can listen to it. When we do beauty shoots for the magazine, we work with those big makeup artists or hairstylists. Marie explains, we’re going to go a little more editorial. Then we will simplify it slightly, more on a how-to for the web.

“Ideas just have to be better from the get-go, so we can spread it out over all those platforms,” says Marie.

Lessons: Everyday Chic Collection

Muriel Favaro is an accomplished artist and associate professor at Parsons School of Design with a few things to share on the subject of creating fashion from everyday objects. This creative pursuit is a way to sharpen your fashion education skills and eye for design using found objects. As fashion business increasingly looks to sustainability, repurposing items is more than a fun trend.

For her homemade chic project, Favaro decided to take a handmade crochet knit and simply put it in the photocopier. She shot screens of the crochet knit and screen-printed the muslin. She repurposed a tissue holder to put all her clips in it and everyday objects for a simple, friendly, and homemade chic.

“In talking about doing always what you truly, truly love – since I was a child, this is my geometry book from when I was 10 years old. I loved geometry. I loved clean lines. I loved colors. And just out of the blue, I discovered that this print I made recently, it’s the exact same thing that I was doing when I was a child. It’s charming.

I also want to speak about my love of what I call everyday objects. I love the tape measure, the scissors, the ruler, pattern paper. I’ve been painting everyday objects myself. So I’ve been painting my scissors, and I have series on all of that. I’m going to just show you some examples.

This is actually a soap grater. I’ve been painting my tools, and it has every stain, every detail of my very used-the screwdriver I took with me when I came to New York almost 40 years ago. My pliers-I came with this pair of pliers also 40 years ago. It has been just a companion in my life. And making it become all of a sudden a piece of art that is going to be noticed on the wall feels really great.” (Muriel Favaro)

Lessons: Factory Prep

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“When we’re referring to the production process, it means that you create specifications and tech packs,” explains Angela Gao. “They send it to the factories, and then they’ll follow the instructions to produce the samples in bulk.”

The tech pack, Angela explains, provides precision. “In a standard tech pack, on the left-hand side, you have something that’s called specs, or specification. And on the right, you have an image of the garment.”

The specs include the style numbers, brand, label, and fabrications you want to use. They also include points of measurement.

These specs will help you produce a sample size. Let’s say, for example, that your specs are for a medium. You can set an Excel formula to fill in the measurements for an extra small, extra large, and more. “Usually in this industry, a small size is two inches smaller than a medium size, and so on,” Angela explains.

Angela also points out that your specs should have a standard deviation. “That’s because even though we’re using machinery to stitch these garments, there are still human errors,” Angela says.

The factory can have a deviation of half and inch, a quarter of an inch, or an eighth of an inch in specific areas. However, Angela adds that you probably shouldn’t include standard deviations in a high-end collection, as these garments are made to measure.

After you’ve sent the tech packs and received your samples, the next step is preparing the garments for sale. That process involves a line sheet.

“You could think of a line sheet as a mini Excel spreadsheet,” says Angela. “You can have images of your garment at the top and detailed information, such as pricing, on the bottom. At the top, you can also have your company name, the season, and delivery dates.”

Depending on how many pieces you have in the collection, you might have as many as 10 to 20 pages of line sheets. From there, you can take the line sheet and prepare yourself for trade shows.

Lessons: Integrated Marketing

Marketing is an organic process in many ways. It exists at all points of the process of fashion. It’s in the ways you understand both your audience and your customer base in the process of designing. Marketing is also the way your customer base knows about you, ultimately, once your work is out there in the world.

If integrated marketing doesn’t happen, then you’re talking to yourself. There’s really no way knowing whether your work and your fashion designs are going to resonate because people simply don’t know about your brand. You need a fashion education and an understanding of the different market channels, how they work, how traditional marketing techniques work, as well as how emerging social media works in today’s changing market.

Social media marketing is now dominating the fashion industry. Online fashion education can help you understand how social media works, the attitudes of various generations and demographics to marketing. It will also help you determine whether certain forms of marketing may turn off potential customers, whether they want be involved in the formation of marketing, and the storytelling that wraps into marketing.

Through integrated marketing of traditional and newly emerging methods, you can also gain great intelligence about this very community you’re wanting your fashion design and your brand to be a part of. Your brand is both working off of that community and also contributing to it. This is what people expect and want from marketing now – to have a two-way dialogue and participate in its development.

Today, consumers want to know the brand intimately and the way in which it’s marketed to better understand the brand. They want to know the brand does care about the lifestyle and aesthetic they’re portraying. This is vital. If the marketing doesn’t embody and represent these values with its customer base, people move on quickly.

Lessons: Introduction to Collections

 “Design is at the heart of everything that drives the fashion industry. Without design, we don’t have a profession. We don’t have an industry. It’s fundamental. It’s core to everything that happens,” Explains Tim Marshall.

But there are many people that work in the fashion industry who are not designers. They participate in all sorts of different ways through marketing, styling, editing, and so on. You may want to be participating in the fashion industry from one of these other positions. Wherever you are, you absolutely have to understand design because it’s absolutely fundamental to everything that happens in the industry. If you don’t have that understanding of design, you’re going to struggle to be convincing to the community you’re a part of.

Design itself is a process by which the things, the artifacts, the clothing, the objects in the world are created. Where they come from, how they’re generated, what their point of view is, what their attitude is. It’s encapsulated in the actual design process. The design process is what brings together all of the elements of what is it made from? What does it look like? How is it manufactured? What price point is that aiming at? What customer or client will it be appealing to?

“To be a designer takes a unique blend. It’s something that we like to profess at Parsons is this unique blend of having a great deal of confidence about your identity, your visual style, your visual language, and your design process alongside a certain humility because a humility is not just about you as a designer,” Marshall says. “You have to understand your customers or your potential customers. You have to understand their lifestyles, their values, their attitudes, and what they’re aspiring to.”

That also takes a certain kind of displacement of yourself. You have to understand more about society. The way people are living, the way their lives are evolving, and their very complex ways to make sure your designs actually connect and resonate with that audience and customer base. Without that, it’s simply your own self-expression, which doesn’t necessarily find an audience. That may be interesting for you, but it will not be successful.

If you’re in any other part of the industry, you’re not going to be a designer, but you have to understand that point about design. Whatever role you’re playing in the industry, you have to also make sure that design essence, that fundamental point of view that the designer is expressing, is then connecting through to the customers and clients in every other dimension. Through its communication, through its marketing, through its styling, and so on and so forth, and the economics and marketing aspects of it as well. It all has to come together and integrate into a whole package of different elements that then makes it a highly successful brand or highly successful design.

Lessons: Introduction to Fashion Media

Understanding fashion media and how media represents the work that you do as a fashion designer, or how you participate in the styling and marketing of fashion, is really at the heart of the whole industry. People only know about your work through media. They don’t understand your brand from direct experience. They only understand it through a magazine, blog, video, or on a runway. Generally speaking, the vast majority of people will be experiencing your brand through some form of media.

Understanding how your fashion business or design work is being represented in this two-dimensional form – whether it’s on a screen or page, can help you determine what works for your particular brand. The attitude and demographic of the publication should be the right fit visually and language-wise for your brand for it to make the most impact. Getting the right visual language for your design, your brand, and putting it into the right media context that represents your audience, customer base, and approach is crucial to your success.

This can mean many different things depending on where you’re starting as a designer and the design attitude is of the brand. It may be a lot of images are basically very indexable. Many fashion education websites that are merchandising clothes directly will be very descriptive. In other contexts, in more cutting-edge magazines, they might be representing the fashion where the clothes aren’t the main focus. The point is the whole attitude, mindset, demographic, or community with similar values to your brand. The clothing fits into that, but it’s not necessarily the only driving force.

Online fashion education can help you pinpoint which media outlets are a fit for your overall brand audience and aesthetic. Understanding the media context and how it works with your brand is vital to sharing your work with your desired audience.