Product Development: Reduce, Reuse, and Recycle Your Last

One of the things that we can all do if we own a footwear brand is innovate. If one of your products sold really well, it might be tempting to re-sell it the next year. But you can’t make the same shoe that you did last spring because your consumers want to see new products all the time.

In order to continue using your best-selling products, you have to take the aspects that your customers loved about your footwear and modify them slightly. Make small changes, such as adapting the top-line cut of the shoe. You could change the height or the shape of the shoes, or add a particular embellishment. You can change the colors of your footwear for the new season too.

The idea is to make subtle changes that don’t compromise the style of the shoe. This way, your customers will still be happy with the product, but you are also modifying your product line to stay on trend.

You could change the structure of your footwear. When I say structure, I mean the way the bottoming is done, such as the heels and the soles of the shoes. For example, if you used a very thin sole and a small heel for one of your women’s products last spring, you might want to change this to a platform shoe or one with a higher heel.

The change in heel height might only be two centimeters, but it’s still something new and different. It’s basically like a brand-new line of footwear, even though a large portion of the product is the same as it was last spring.

This way, you can take a successful product from last year, adapt it slightly, and re-sell without looking like you’re repeating yourself.

Range Planning and Sourcing Production: Good, Better, Best

When we’re first initially launching a brand, we really need to think about where’s the opportunity. Where do we want this brand to sit within my price zones? Is it a good brand? Is it a better brand? Is it a best brand? That’s some of the terminology we use. If it’s an opening price, is it something in the middle or is it something that’s high end? Depending on where the brand will sit, that determines what the materials are. For example, if you’re opening price, you’re not going to have any leather in the line, and the materials will be all manmade. If it’s something that’s in the mid-tier, there might be one or two key items that you might have leather in. The leather will be where you think it’s really important for the customer, but the majority of it may be manmade. Once you get into some of the best brands or something that’s a little bit more designer inspired, that’s where you’ll use a lot of the better materials. Even within leather, you’ll have, different qualities of leather from India, Italy, etc. All of that fluctuates, but understanding the brand DNA and the pricing architecture will determine the maternal.

Each category should have a price point. You should know what you’re designing into. You should know your wholesale price point and you should know your retail price point. You need to need to learn the wholesale part because it will enhance your design capabilities. It makes you smarter. To know what shoes sold and what they sold for. This is what the margins were. This is what the markdowns were if they were put on sale. How many points are they making? You need to know all those things. It’s very important.

Range Planning and Sourcing Production: Where in the World is my Production Facility?

There are 330-340 million consumers in the US who buy footwear. Businesses need to take a lot of careful consideration when designing and developing their footwear so they produce products that consumers want to buy.

In America, we import about two and a half billion pairs of shoes every single year. Looking at this per capita, this equates to around 7.2 or 7.3 pairs of shoes for every single man, woman, and child in this country every single year.

American consumers import and purchase more footwear per capita than any country in the world. We don’t have the resources in our own country to meet the needs of the American population so we import a lot of materials from other countries.

Of the two and a half billion pairs of shoes, we may produce around 30 million pairs a year here in the US. Production takes a lot of capital-intensive investments, as well as high skilled labor to ensure that the footwear is of the highest quality.

Often, companies have to figure out more innovative ways to source their products and distribute this product through the supply chain. And this supply chain involves the movement of materials through several other countries before they arrive in America.

For example, they may be shipped to Vietnam from China, then exported out of Vietnam across the Pacific to the port of Long Beach or the port of LA. The products are then distributed to a distribution center in Southern California or somewhere in the Midwest, such as Louisville or Memphis. Finally, it is distributed out to a retailer or consumer, which can be in any state of the country.

So, as a business, it’s important to focus on sustainable practice when sourcing the materials for your footwear. This is important for both a consumer awareness perspective and an environmentally friendly perspective.

Media and PR: Telling the Brand Story: Brand Storytelling

Brand storytelling is more than simply sharing the story of your brand’s history from the beginning to the present. Whether you are trying to renew interest in your company or getting a new company off the ground, brand storytelling is as essential to any business as making sure you send the correct orders to the people who made them.

So, if telling customers or potential ones a sequential history of your brand isn’t brand storytelling, then what makes brand storytelling different? And why is getting telling the brand story in a certain way crucial to the success of any business?

What makes brand storytelling unique from laying out a timeline is that it elicits an emotional reaction and creates a connection with people when done correctly. These people will hopefully turn into new customers.

Most importantly, your storytelling must be authentic if it is going to resonate with others. When you think of David Yurman, of course, you will think of jewelry, but you may also feel as though the artist created the particular piece just for you. David Yurman’s brand storytelling reminds you that artists first and foremost are what leads the brand—designed to be both stunning and unique each piece is a reminder that artists show and care about the brand. That type of almost purely visual storytelling, along with written storytelling, allows the brand’s artistic roots to shine through, resonating with artists and art lovers alike.

As humans, we all need to feel understood, to know that someone out there empathizes with us as we empathize with others. While not every person will identify with every brand, the brands you will remember are the ones that tap into that innate human need to connect. If your brand storytelling is relatable and one that people can identify with, even feel a part of, you are doing something right.

Don’t fret if telling a story with visuals or your words isn’t your first choice of jobs to do within your company. You have options to help ensure adherence to the last aspect of your brand storytelling – consistency. It’s imperative to keep the feeling your brand’s storytelling evokes in people the same across all media platforms, from digital, print, and television to influencers you may choose to enlist to promote your products.

A company can choose who tells its brand’s particular story. If it is your company, you will feel that connection to your story. Whether you can convert that into marketable media or not, public relations (PR) professionals and PR firms are there to help. They will extend the reach of your story, acting as liaisons with media professionals who will put your brand and storytelling in front of a wider audience.

Brand storytelling is multifaceted; enlist help when you need it. As long as it remains authentic and consistent, people will identify with it and with your company.

Naming the Brand: What do They Hear?: Case Study: Naming “Lafayette 148”

Choosing the name for your fashion brand can be a surprisingly complicated process. While it may initially be simple to come up with a name you love, you also need to perform your due diligence to ensure it’s not already taken or trademarked. When Lafayette 148 New York first started out in 1996, they underestimated the process of securing their name and brand.

Their name, chosen because it was their street address in iconic New York City, was challenged three years into business by a French department store with Lafayette also in their name. Lafayette 148 already had a few stores, branding, and stationery in their name at this point. Luckily, their trademark infringement claim was denied since the department store did not have a brand presence in the U.S.A.

After winning the U.S. trademark case, Lafayette 148 New York expanded their fashion business into Canada and also won their trademark. The process of securing and protecting their brand name was one country at a time and involved costly legal fees. In their case, they must always include the numbers and New York in their name.

When deciding on the name for your fashion brand, it’s smart to look up any potential names on the United States Patent and Trademark Office website and see if they are already a registered trademark. If not, you can apply for a trademark in your specific category as well as secure your website domain and social media handles.

Many people choose to use their own name or initials for their fashion brand. Using online fashion education and noting what makes your brand unique or what words describe your aesthetic can help you come up with a classic name that accurately conveys your brand.

Naming the Brand: What do They Hear?: Some Considerations in Naming

In the head space of the consumers and the industry, brands have a front door. The front door that makes the first impression on the world. This is the name. Coming up with a name that’s going to resonate is super important for your brand. It should be something that people can remember. It should be a name that’s going to stick around.

It’s a mystery why some brand names resonate and why some don’t. We can ask, how did this brand become a huge brand and this brand not? Ultimately, determining why some names stick is hard to kind of quantify. How these brands endure has to do with what’s behind the name. Names are certainly important.

When naming a brand, it’s important to consider a number of factors. If you are starting a brand that you want to have a global scale, you have to consider how the name will translate. For example, you have to ask yourself how this name will translate into Mandarin for a business in China, which is a really important market. Ask yourself: How is this name going to project around the globe?

Thinking about a brand and the name for it can be tricky. “There are certain things that I love for my personal aesthetic. For example, I love genericness, but at the same time it has to be searchable, it has to be found in the world. Like for example, there’s a music group called Men or there’s another music group called The Internet. And I think that’s so fun, but at the same time, it is impossible to find, and it’s not really but it is. Then also, I think personal connections again, make the most sense,” says [INSERT SPEAKER HERE].

Naming the Brand: What do They Hear?: Some Legal Considerations in Naming

What’s in a name? The choice of branding is one that’s fraught with potential pitfalls in fashion business. The eponymous brand means naming the brand after yourself. The world is rife with eponymous brands and some of the biggest brands are named after their designers. Even the great fashion houses of Europe are named after their initial designer.

There’s a precedence for this type of naming, but it also puts the designer in a difficult position once they need investors. Investment comes with degrees of control. If an investor buys into your brand and your brand is Douglas Hand, and you are Douglas Hand, that investor wants 33 percent of the company that holds the trademark Douglas Hand.

Investors will have a lot of input on how the Douglas Hand name is used. You may not agree with those things, but your name is outside of your own control. Now it’s in the control of a constituency that is usually focused on return.

In the 1980s, you had Calvin Klein with his name sewn on really cheap underwear. They made a lot of royalties, but Calvin himself probably wasn’t very happy about it. That is one pitfall of the eponymous brand.

Lawyers and fashion education experts advise clients to come up with something fanciful when deciding on a brand’s name. Why fanciful? You have the benefit of not having to possibly give up the rights to your personal name in the future if you decide to sell your brand.

Another pitfall for names is you can’t choose something that’s purely descriptive. American Apparel, for example, was selling American-made apparel, not the brand. They didn’t have trademark rights until the world recognized American Apparel meant it’s from the Los Angeles-based company run by Dov Charney. It takes a while to build up that name recognition in the mind of the consumer.

Physical Retail: Ecommerce and Physical Stores


Retail has rapidly changed over the years, with some fashion brands opting for alternatives to the traditional brick & mortar, physical store concept. You’ll find brands focusing solely on e-commerce and not having a physical location. Others have a more hybrid approach. Their physical store serves as more of a showroom for potential customers to see their brand in person before later purchasing online.

The innovative use of the showroom concept for fashion retail locations has been adopted by major brands including Bonobos. Potential customers can check out the brand in person, assessing quality, materials, colors, and sizing. Unlike a traditional retail store where you can purchase on site for instant gratification, the showroom concept has customers place their order at the showroom or online for pick up at the showroom.

The showroom model has become a marketing and advertising play for a lot of retailers. Physical retail is also turning into industrial fulfillment, where they’ll do a hybrid model where there’s the showroom and the goods will be at the fulfillment center.

Nordstrom is currently doing this model where half of their stores use this concept called the “bricks to clicks effect.” Through fashion education and trend spotting, a lot of fashion brands are starting to reevaluate their sales channels. Ifthey have a brick and mortar location for consumers to see the styles in person, they’re starting to see in increased online sales in that geographic area – the bricks to clicks effect.

This sales data is being monitored by performance analytics tools like like the Guest platform. Also, point of sale (POS) companies are starting to provide more granular data to their customers and their retailers, so they can use this data to make better qualified buying decisions going forward.

Lessons: Lines and Collections

In the fashion business, “collection” basically means articles of clothing or different items in the clothing line that make up a new collection. What’s the difference between “collection” and “line”? A line is simply a specific organized group of garments that has a centralized concept. It’s a little bit similar to collection. For a designer, you many have different lines working under your label, meaning you have a contemporary line, a high-end line, and a low-end, mass-market line. These lines sell to different clients with different price points.

For a contemporary collection, designers may produce anything from 15 pieces to 30 pieces or 30 styles. For a larger designer corporation or designer label, they may produce as many as 70 to 100 styles per season. We dress differently in the four different seasons of the year. Some designers like to combine the seasons together to create a spring/summer and fall/winter collection every year. For larger mass-market stores, such as Gap, they will produce spring 1, spring 2, spring 3, summer 1, summer 2, summer 3, and so on.

Designers use their fashion education and take a look at what is necessary for their customers in each distinct season. A jacket for a cold wintry day, or a blazer for a nice spring afternoon with some breeze. Creating a complete seasonal look is key. Another important aspect of designing a fashion collection is you want to have a centralized theme. If you’re using all earthy tones, then use only warm, natural tones. If you want to do a neon pop color collection, then you might choose hot pinks, hot reds, and hot blues. Therefore, your fabrications and colors should be pretty much uniform and fit the overall theme.

Lessons: Runway Looks

“Every season as a team we collectively go through all of the runway shows from New York, London, Milan, and Paris, and pull through actual looks that we think will work for future stories at Teen Vogue,” Says Sarah Brody. “Once we’ve identified the trend for the season, we go through all of our market images, which are the photos that we’ve taken at all the appointments that we’ve gone to so far, and we pull out the lower end market and the more affordable pieces that we think that our readers want to see on the page that still relates to the bigger trends that we’ve seen this season.”

“After that, we compile a book that we present to Amy, our editor in chief and our creative director at Marie. We go over every single trend, what styles we think might like that trend, what photographer would work well with it, and we send them out to all the stylists and photographers that we work with regularly. They send back their feedback and some inspiration images that they would want to incorporate for a future shoot for the magazine.”

“As shoots are confirmed, we work with stylists to call in the best pieces that we think will work for the story that they’re doing. Whether that’s a sweater from Guess or a pair of jeans from AG, we’re always looking for the best pieces in the market because it’s our job as editors to not have everything here.”

“Once everything is here and laid out, it’s organized on racks and tables. We then, as a team, edit through to what we think are the best of the best pieces that we want to show the stylists and show Amy in the run through. For those of you that don’t know what a run through is, it’s like a dress rehearsal before a show,” Explains Brody.

“We go through everything. Amy picks out her favorite pieces as the stylists goes through the looks that they’ve created. We talk over the shoot before it actually happens.”

“My favorite part of my job is meeting with new designers and figuring out how I can incorporate them into the book. After all, the Teen Vogue tagline is ‘fashion starts here’. A special experience for me was our main cover story with Kylie Jenner where our sales brand and Maxwell asked the fashion team if we knew of any designers that sent a muslin dress down the runway, and no one really did.”

“I thought of a friend that was just starting out on his own, and I asked him if he would make a dress. Brandon, myself, and my friend Max designed the entire thing from scratch. I was super excited when it ended up being shot. Here’s the image of Kylie and her friends wearing it. That was just one of the many, many memories I have of working here at Teen Vogue.”