Angela Gao walks us through the importance of correctly fitting clothes with pins to get the look you are trying to achieve in fashion and the fashion business.
“Here we have a new ensemble of samples that just came back from the factory on our beautiful model Agnes,” says Angela Gao. “This is a jersey top, it’s very loose on her. This is the importance of fitting. To fit the garment is basically to make it fit your customer size, or the model, or the person who’s wearing your garment. The tools that we need are these little pins.”

You should be very careful never to pin the model that you’re depending on. There are specific rules as to where the pins should be pointing and how each seam or placement should be pinned. The reason I’m pinning at the shoulder is the shoulder seam is too low. I’m going to move it up a little bit so it’s actually on the high point of her shoulder.

Now let’s turn her around: the armhole is way too big, says Angela. We’re going to fix it by pinning the side seam a little bit closer together.

“One thing you should be careful to not force the fabric,” says Angela. “It’s a very important skill. Fabric wants to move in a certain direction in a certain way. The pinning should only adjust the size without forcing it.”

After I’ve indicated where the armhole should end, I’m going to start pinning the side seam. I still want the side seam to slant in the a-line shape, so I’m going to pin down the side seam at an angle.

You will finish this process by pinning to the bottom of the hemline. Now, the left side is a much better-fitted vest than the right side, which is still baggy and droopy.

If you’re happy with your fit, then it’s time to use a marker or tailor’s chalk. You’re going to redraw these lines, trace them, trace the pin line in the back, take pictures, and then send the sample garment back to the sample room or a factory.

After that, you would just wait for them to send you a new sample, recheck it, refit to make sure that everything is fitting properly, until to you it’s perfect. Then you can put it into production and have them sent to your customers and your buyers.

Your ideas begin with your story. That’s one of the hardest parts of developing your themes and grooves, especially as you develop all of this into a portfolio. That’s really where you want to capture it all. But where do we begin?

Being creative is an elusive idea. You want to explore it, but you don’t want to overthink it. Start with things that you see in your everyday life. Then think about your past. It all truly comes back to what your story is about.

Let’s talk about some examples. You may be wondering if a cow skull could inspire you. You’re intrigued by its texture. It reminds you of the American southwest that you love. It also begins to build a bridge to the work of artist Georgia O’Keeffe.

That gets you thinking about O’Keefe. She was an amazing, independent woman. She began an incredible art movement filled with simplified shapes. She took objects that we perhaps wouldn’t notice and presented them on a bold scale.

You can see that it’s not always the object itself that’s going to inspire you. It’s the ideas and connections it represents.

I took an incredible trip to India. It’s a country that I feel everybody in fashion should visit to experience the textures, the colors, the fabrics, and the atmosphere. I found some wooden blocks there that took me on a journey of inspiration.

What I loved about the blocks was that they reminded me of an incredible visit I took to a mill. It was really hot and all the windows and doors were open. The simplicity of taking cotton fabric, placing it on a very long table, and having a group of people going down the row and printing this pattern was fascinating.

For years I had seen incredible Indian prints. And I always wondered how they were made. I was so excited to see how the prints were developed—the pressure and the ink that was never perfect. That’s what really got me excited.

So it isn’t just the Indian wood block itself. It’s the trip, the colors, the feeling, the mood that it represents. That’s what I want to share with you. How an idea can develop.

In fashion, we love to thrift shop. We all agree that we own too much. On a trip to LA, I found a coat in a thrift store. I loved the wonderful vintage quality of it and its distressed look. The whole feel of it was cool.

That coat reminded me of my childhood growing up in the ’70s and got me thinking of the era. That led me to actors and films that I loved and just where I was in my life at that time. I began to really look at the coat and noticed amazing buckles and heavy stitching. All of these wonderful details informed my ideas.

I also love to take pictures and capture images that I see every day. I encourage all of you to do it, too. Sometimes you may not want to, but you’ll be glad when you capture something that caught your eye and starts your mind rolling.

Working with images from a trip you took or an experience you had will remind you of every aspect of those experiences. Then you begin to think about them differently and they become part of your creative process.

So as you begin this journey, as you begin to think about developing your concepts and themes, begin with your story. Begin from your point of view. That’s what you want to convey as you develop your work. Your experiences and your story are what you want to reflect in your portfolio.

SKU is a standard-keeping unit that’s associated with the barcode on your product. An SKU differentiates between styles, sizes, colors, and other technical features. It’s usually a number and a letter combination, which translates easily between languages and makes it simple to track without confusing people.

It’s also associated with the barcode you use when telling items in a store or online. It allows you to keep track of which colors, styles, and sizes sell better. You can use this data to determine which types of products you need to make more or less of in the future. Pay attention to the data associated with each SKU so that you can make sound financial decisions.
The challenge with footwear is that there are so many SKUs to create for just one style. Decide whether you want a range from a size 5 to a size 13 or if you want a narrower size selection. It’s better to have a wider range of shoe sizes because shoe sizes vary so much. This means that shoes will always need to have many SKUs. Then you have to consider whether you want to make them wide, narrow, or with half-sizes.
Variety is good for customers because they want an extensive selection. But when there are so many SKUs and you have to create different tech packs for each, it often causes confusion in manufacturing.

Costing your fashion product usually involves a few components. As a merchandiser, you may have 10 styles and want to have a certain markup. If you’re selling within your own stores, you usually want at least a 75 to 85 percent internal markup. If you want to retail a jacket for $695, you need to then back it up and already know that your landed cost needs to be 20 percent of that to get your 80 percent markup.

If the coat designer wants beautiful satin made in Italy, your cost of goods will increase. Generally, when you’re looking at cost of goods and cost on the item, around 70 percent is the raw materials. In your fashion business, you must think about the actual materials – the thread, the trim, the buttons.

If you are going to get your desired 75 or 80 percent margin, this coat is going to be $1,500 versus the $695 you wanted. You’ll then have to go back to the design team since the market and your brand can’t retail this high. The cost value is not there, so you’re going to see where you can cut costs using fashion education and sourcing. Can you counter source a material in another country that looks and feels the same? Can you take a few pockets off to lower the cost?

The second component of costing is having a loss leader. A loss leader is the one item that’s the showstopper, the most fashionable piece. You need this piece to draw interest to the collection, although you’re getting a lower margin, possibly a 40 to 50 percent margin. You’re going to make fewer units, but the other styles have higher margins. Many fashion brands use this blended costing because ultimately it’s the blended total that makes a difference.

Costing a product is a full-time job and usually takes many people. You can look at costing in a couple of different ways. As a merchandiser, let’s say you had 10 styles, and we wanted to have a certain markup. If you’re selling within your own stores, you usually want at least a 75% to 85% internal markup. If you want to retail a jacket for $695, and you already know that your landed cost needs to be 20% of that to get your 80% markup.
A designer wants this beautiful satin made in Italy. When you’re looking at the cost of goods, around 70% is the raw materials, like the thread, the trim, and the zipper or button. A designer goes to Premiere Vision and finds the most beautiful Italian satin they want to use. If you are going to get the 75% or 80% margin you want, the jacket is going to be $1500 compared to the $695 or the $595 you wanted.
You go back to the design team and tell them that if the market can’t retail nor our brand can retail a jacket this high, there’s no the cost value is not there. Start taking things out of it. Can we counter source material in another country that looks and feels the same but not the higher quality? Can we take a few pockets off of it to lower the cost?
Let’s say a loss leader is the one item that is the showstopper—the most fashionable piece. You need it to draw everyone in to look at the collection, but you already know you’re going to get a lower margin on it. It might be 40% or 50%. You’re going to do a few units, but the other nine styles are going to have higher margins. That’s a trick that all fashion brands use. It’s called blended costing. They look at key items, but they also look at it as blended because ultimately, it’s the blended total that really makes a difference.

Branding is a unique opportunity for entrepreneurs.

In today’s world, there are so many ways an entrepreneur can use branding to strengthen their business. For little to no cost, entrepreneurs can post branded content across social media platforms to sell product and grow their business.

The Branding Challenge

The challenge with branding, however, is that it can be difficult for entrepreneurs to be creative and come out with unique and differentiated content. As a low-cost strategy, many entrepreneurs are using branded content, and this is saturating the market and creating more competition. Entrepreneurs will publish great content on social only to find that they are only gaining a few likes and not generating the attention and engagement they need to sell product and successfully run their business. To be successful, entrepreneurs need a couple hundred thousand, or millions, of likes to achieve significant business growth.

TikTok is the Latest Dream Machine for Marketers

With global popularity, TikTok is gaining traction as one of the most popular platforms for advertisers. With 15 seconds to capture consumers’ attention, advertisers are leveraging music and parading to something fashionable to develop memorable branded content.

It’s a common human trait that we can receive information faster that we can send it, so in 15 seconds brands have enough time to tell their whole story, brand it, and repeat it umpteen million times. And the best part? It cost literally nothing.

The catch, however, is that to be successful on TikTok, you need to be more creative than the next guy. With so many brands fighting for consumer attention, your content must be differentiated and unique to be successful. So, for all the entrepreneurs looking at low-cost solutions to share their brand message, TikTok is a great option. But you must be that much more creative to succeed.

Fashion is changing rapidly and speed to market is a huge part of this transformation. In the past few years in fast fashion we’ve seen a lot of disruption, decentralization, and Instagram monetization.

Think about the original fashion business supply chain and how it’s been set up with department stores and a push model of the industry deciding what’s available and what we’re going to wear. Everyone was shopping in malls to engage with products.

Today, we’re operating more on a pull model where customers can tell us more about what they want. We’ve seen retailers like Zara, Forever 21, and H&M operate in this model of what we consider fast fashion. The real difference is the speed to market and the time it takes for the production process for that product to make its way to a floor.

Zara has been able to innovate and engage with feedback loops and speed up the process to market. Engaging in smaller batch manufacturing is helpful when you’re competing for space on a manufacturing line. It takes more effort and resources to produce 30,000 garments in one place versus spreading out demand in several factories since you’re competing with other retailers and brands to get manufacturing facility space and capacity.

Using fashion education, you can pivot more quickly when you’re dealing with fewer units. There’s opportunities to use customer feedback to shorten production lead time.There are so many points in the supply chain where, when you’re dealing with less units, it becomes easier for stores to more quickly funnel their product.

In historical department store retail, it could take six to nine months to go through this process. Fast fashion really disrupted that process and we no longer have to wait for the season to end to continue iterating, innovating, and ultimately bring newness on our time.

Today, every brand has a website. They have a web presence of some sort. I believe your website should provide precisely what your customers, or tribe, are looking for.

Many businesses use e-commerce. However, the internet is a bit more educational. You can buy clothes on the web, but first, let us tell you about ourselves. We’ll show you how we sustainably make our products.

It becomes a component of marketing and romancing the customer with who you are and how you conduct business. Nobody wants to be more than a few mouse clicks away from making a purchase. You must make it simple and easy to use.

I believe that user-friendliness is the key. A lot of really high-end corporations, in my opinion, are really good at making attractive visuals. You go to the site, and it’s absolutely stunning, and it perfectly captures the look they’re after. However, if you can’t easily navigate from item to item or see the product’s information, you’ll discover abandoned carts more often than not. Alternatively, they could have simply given up and departed.

We’ve witnessed significant growth in online shopping. Even those I would never expect to embrace e-commerce, such as my parents and people in their eighties, have acclimated to it, and everyone is doing it this way. You’ll want to make sure that your website is simple to use however you put yourself out there.